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  • Writer's pictureDanielle Breese

Fashion Photography Analysis: Serge Lutens


Serge Lutens piece of work, named "The Dopple-ganger", features an individual whose gender is not specific enveloped in green and black glittered garments. Accessorised with jewels the image gives off a glamorous, avant garde approach to fashion photography. This is a theme within his work, integrating his photography with fine art that makes his work individual and recognisable. In terms of what is in the image, the mysterious being wears a single eye patch, which in turn makes the viewer question why it was there in the first place. This intrigue is enhanced by the smoke within the image from a single cigarette that is matched with an unreadable facial expression. What are they thinking? Comes to mind often when looking at the image. When thinking outside of the image, I thought of the date (1973) which then made me imagine this individual to be in a 70s Sci-Fi film due to the styling and atmosphere of the shot; now reminiscent in well known names such as, The Fifth Element and Blade Runner.

The colours within the image, as stated before, are green and black. The green is an emerald that evokes a darker tone which seeps into the heavy black that surrounds the individual, therefore making them one with each other. Another two colours in the image is

white which is mainly predominant on the face making them a ghost like figure. A hint of red is also a part of the palette, hidden within the jewels on the hand it stands out and makes the viewer drawn to that certain focal point. In terms of the narrative within the image you could assume that this single red blink is used to take your focus away from the figure as they watch you in the darkness; yet again the mystery of the character is thought of again. Linked to this is the pattern of masking within the image. The being covers themselves many times; eye-patch, with a hand over the face and with the smoke. Including itself in the realms of pattern is the way the colours have been merged together similarly in two halves of the image. On the top half the black dominates the green which is also the case for the bottom half. The smokiness of the eye also corresponds with the smoke in the image, enhancing the ghostly look.


The idea of the person being one with the background as their colours blend with the black of the background evokes a feeling of lurking in the shadows; of the viewer being watched. The glitter on the garment links back to my idea the Sci-Fi realm but in a space age glamour tone, the tone of the character within this narrative has that of a rough grittiness to it due to the attitude of the individual that is being given off. The whole ensemble connotes a mystery (as stated many times) There is no background, other people, objects; just the single person. The minimal ways of the image makes you want to question why they are the way they are. The name 'Doppleganger' also teases the idea of who they are a double of. Who are they in this that invokes a dream like world? Thinking back to the white of the face, it could insinuate that the individual in particular wants to seem like this ghost like figure in order to appear as if they aren't there, as if they don't want to be seen. They are just an observer to the world. Given the use of the use eyeline between the individual and the viewer it could be insinuated that they are watching whoever is reading. Usually this technique is used to create a connection between the two however in this case no connection can be made as the one watching seems to have a disconnect to emotion therefore the link between the two is non existent.


To conclude the "Doppleganger" uses the spirit of mystery to create a certain message. I believe that this message is that anyone can be watching and observing your every move. The fact that the image also has that specific title could assume that the individual has the power to change themselves in the shadows to fit whoever they are watching. To link to this from a communications view, the image connotes darkness, a rebellious edge, as well as a strange sexiness due to the stigma around smoking during the era. With this comes the ideology that if you smoke you can be this mysterious hidden figure that exudes a glamour through the clothes and accessories you wear. Standing out from the rest whilst being hidden. You can become an object of question or even desire.

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